Thursday, September 30, 2010

Skiff Residence Williston, VT

*Click on photos for larger image
This free standing field stone wall was built 2 years ago bordering the driveway. I took the wall apart and rebuilt it using 2 additional pallets of wall stone.
After. I prepared the base of the wall excavating the soil to a depth of 18" and filling with 3/4" plant mix compacting in 3" lifts. This creates adequate drainage and prevents the wall from heaving in the Spring from frost in the soil.


Before. You can see the wall is settling and starting to fall over.


After. The wall is battered (tapered in) on both sides, straight and level.



Before




After





Before





After








Building the wall.








Building the corner square to the house.




















The original plan was to remove the Birch tree and then build the wall. Instead we decided to leave the tree and curve the wall around it.



































































Thursday, September 9, 2010

Friday, September 3, 2010

Fall Landscaping Tips

Fall is a great time for planting. Most nurseries are having big sales this time of year to lower their inventory. I mix in compost when transplanting to help establish a good root system. Perennials should be planted by the end of October and trees by mid November. Most perennials can be divided and transplanted at this time as well. Plant bulbs after gardens beds are cleaned up by cutting back perennials and pruning shrubs as needed. I generally leave plants that provide winter interest, such as Sedum, Ornamental Grasses, Rudbeckia, and Echinacea.

To get the most enjoyment out of your flowers before winter sets in, bring potted annuals inside on cold frosty nights or cover plants with light weight sheets. Forcing bulbs indoors is an easy way to have bright colors by late winter. It usually takes 10-12 weeks for bulbs to bloom when they are stored in a cool, dry area like a basement.

To effectively winterize your garden, I recommend the following:
Spray Wilt-Pruf anti-desiccant on broadleaf evergreens to prevent leaves from drying out in cold winter winds. Rhododendrons, Mountain Laurel (Kalmia), Andromeda (Pieris), evergreen Hollies and Drooping Leucothoe are most susceptible.
Staple burlap onto stakes around larger shrubs to prevent winter wind burn. Make sure to leave a space between the foliage and burlap.
Wrap plastic tree guards around young fruit trees to prevent vole and insect damage.

If you have problems with deer eating your plants, fall is also a good time to spray plants susceptible to deer damage with Deer Off repellent or its equivalent. Plastic mesh netting around your larger shrubs is also effective deer protection. Small deciduous shrubs (those that drop their leaves in the fall, such as Azalea, Viburnum, Weigela, Lilac, Dogwood and Hydrangea) can be wrapped and tied with burlap for winter deer protection.

Late fall is the perfect time to rake leaves and thatch (the build up of grass clippings in lawn) off of your yard, and to fertilize trees, shrubs, perennials, and lawns. I use Pro-Gro 5-3-4 organic fertilizer found at local nurseries and garden centers. Test your soil’s pH, as low or high pH levels can cause nutrient deficiencies in your plants. Low pH (acidic - below 6.5) is very common in this area, and can be raised by spreading pelletized lime. Test kits for pH are sold at garden centers and are very user friendly.

Finally, don’t forget to clean, inspect and sharpen tools for next year, and to add fuel stabilizer to lawn mowers, trimmers, etc. By properly preparing your garden, lawn and tools for the winter, you will be ready when spring finally arrives!

http://www.vaughanlandscaping.com/

Thursday, September 2, 2010

Ecological Alternatives to Invasive Plants in Vermont


http://www.nature.org/wherewework/northamerica/states/vermont/volunteer/art32017.html

















































*Click on image to view

More Invasive Plant Alternatives:

Acer ginnala Amur Maple
Alternatives:
Acer triflorum Three-Flowered Maple
Amelanchier x grandiflora Apple Serviceberry, Naturalizing Native in VT
Malus 'Prairie Fire' Prairie Fire Crabapple

Acer platanoides Norway Maple
Alternatives:
Acer x freemanii 'Jeffersred' Autumn Blaze Maple
This is a hybrid of Red and Silver Maple.
Both are Native in VT

Berberis thunbergii Japanese Barberry
Alternatives:
Fothergilla gardenii 'Mt Airy'
Weigela florida 'Wine & Roses'
Rhododendron Lights Series cultivars; Deciduous Azalea. 'Rosy Lights', 'White Lights', 'Northern Highlights', 'Candy Lights', etc.

Clethra alnifolia cultivars, Summersweet Native in Northeast
Hydrangea arborescens cultivars, Smooth Hydrangea Native in Northeast

Euonymus alatus Burning Bush
Alternatives:
Aronia arbutifolia Red Chokeberry 'Brilliantissima', Naturalizing Native in VT
Ilex verticillata Winterberry, Naturalizing
Native in VT
Physocarpus opulifolius Eastern Ninebark 'Coppertina' , 'Summer Wine', 'Dart's Gold' Native in Northeast
Cotinus coggygria Smokebush

Cornus sericea Redosier Dogwood, Naturalizing Native in VT
Enkianthus campanulatus Red-Veined Enkianthus Zone 5
Hydrangea quercifolia Oak Leaf Hydrangea Zone 5

Iris pseudacorus Yellow Flag Iris
Alternatives:
Digitalis grandiflora Yellow Foxglove
Hemerocallis 'Stella d'Oro'
Oenothera Evening Primrose

I have recently signed a voluntary code of conduct through the VNLA, VIEPC and Nature Conservancy to not buy, sell or design any of the invasive plants listed above. To learn more click on the link below:
http://www.nature.org/vermont/weeds