A.Introduction
1.Analyze your current landscape and decide what you want to achieve.
Do a site analysis; plot out house or existing structures, plants, hardscapes, grade changes, traffic flow, orientation, etc. Are you trying to create privacy, screen, or enhance a view?
Most people like garden beds with trees, shrubs, perennials, bulbs, annuals and possibly a water feature.
2.Create a budget so you know how much to plan for this year and subsequent years.
Start out with a small area to begin with so you can learn what you like and plan to expand next year.
3.Observe and learn from other landscapes.
Check out your neighbor’s yards, what works, what doesn’t, and what did you see that was functionally wrong. Common mistakes are planting large shrubs in front of windows, planting trees too close to the house or under power lines and planting too close together.
Observe landscapes that were planted by professionals if you can, especially at their home of business like a garden center. This is free knowledge so take advantage of it, I do.
B.Plant Selection
1.Hardiness zones, plant location and microclimates.
According to hardiness maps it has been colder the last 50 years than the first half of the 20th century. What does this tell us? It has been cold! As you all know, in fact the average temperature has probably been lower in the last 5 years. There is a narrow strip about 10 miles out that follows Lake Champlain that is rated a low zone 5a, this means you can plant a marginally hardy plant in this area but make sure that it is very well protected. Plant in an area sheltered from the North and Southwest winds, near stone or a foundation, and in an area that does not collect cold air like at the bottom of a hill or slope.
2.Soil types: clay, sandy, silty or combination of three. Soil test for nutrients and pH, compost is good for every type of soil.
Pick a plant that is suited for the soil type. For instance if your had a site that was sandy, well drained and had little or no nutrients you want to pick plants that can survive in those conditions. The same goes for plants that can tolerate heavy soils. Regardless of soil type I always encourage using compost as an amendment to any soil type. It creates soil structure in sandy soil, increasing organic matter and nutrient availability to the plant. In a heavy clay soil it increases pore size and drainage and makes the high nutrients in the clay available to the plant. It also buffers the pH, meaning it neutralizes if the soil is acidic or alkaline.
3.Determine how much light site receives – sun, shade or part-shade.
Make sure plants that need a lot of light are in a site with full sun (6-8 hours of light per day). Plants that require full shade should be in dense shade as well. Part – shade plants prefer more light but will grow well in 50% light as well.
4.Is the site waterlogged, dry or in between? Select plants that will tolerate existing conditions!
If the site is sandy and well drained then pick plants that will tolerate dry conditions. Same if it is wet, pick plants that can tolerate moist or boggy conditions. This is much easier and cheaper than trying to fix the soil or install irrigation so planning is crucial.
5.Size – how large will the plant get at maturity? Does it require a lot of pruning/shearing or none?
Always take into consideration how big the plant will get at maturity and how much pruning they will require. Some plants like forsythia, dogwood, spireae, require heavy pruning in order for the plant to maintain its vigor and flowering. Some evergreens may require shearing in the Spring as well as Autumn to maintain its shape especially in a hedge, like hemlock, Arborvitae, yews. The main point I am trying to get across is pick plants that will not outgrow their space.
6.Flowers – Plan to have some plants in bloom throughout the season but have it look best in mid-Summer July/August.
Bulbs in Spring, then Spring blooming shrubs and perennials. Summer is when you want perennials and annuals looking their best. Fall is the time for foliage, fruit, bark and late blooming shrubs and perennials.
7.Multi-season plants – pick perennials, shrubs and trees that have multi-season interest based on flowers, foliage, and bark and branch structure.
Think about what shrubs and trees will look like in the Winter which is about 3-4 months in Vermont. Does the plant keep its leaves, is it weeping or have an interesting form, does it have berries that persist throughout the winter, exfoliating or nice bark texture and color. Try to pick trees and shrubs that look good year round.
8. Low maintenance is in, select plants that are long-lived and resistant to disease, animal and insect damage.
Pick plants that are resistant to powdery mildew – big problem. If you know a particular species is prone to an insect or disease pick a variety that is most resistant. Pick plants that are least susceptible to deer browse and plants that are resistant to salt damage especially near by walks and roads.
9.Experiment with less expensive plants especially if they are marginal.
Plant only a few of a variety if you are not sure its what you like. You can experiment with marginal plants in microclimates by buying smaller, cheaper plants.
10.Ask a Horticulturist or nursery professional for advice, most of us love to share our knowledge.
11. Books, magazines, catalogues, web-sites, garden clubs, etc.
C.Principles of Design
1.Space
2.Scale/Proportion
3.Symmetry
4.Balance
5.Repetition/Rhythm
This also can be done with flowers and shrubs using repetition in species, size, and flower color in a garden bed.
6.Contrast
Vertical ornamental grasses mixed with perennials and groundcover. A single stemmed tree next to a mounding/weeping evergreen.
7.Color
Complementary/contrasting colors – Analogous/harmonious colors –
Purple & green/yellow Yellow and green-yellow
Yellow & purple/blue Yellow and yellow-red
Blue & yellow/red Red and yellow-red
Red & blue/green Red and red-purple
Green & red/purple Purple and red-purple
Purple and purple-blue
Blue and purple-blue
Blue and blue-green
Green and blue-green
Green and green-yellow
Use yellow, red, and orange sparingly for color as these colors are very bright and too much can make people uncomfortable.
8. Theme Gardens
Attracting butterfly’s or birds
Children’s garden’s
Topiary’s or maze’s
Showcasing a species or variety of plants
Woodland garden
Water or bog garden
Alpine garden
D.Some Cultural Notes
1.Watering
Water 1” per week the first year this is most crucial for plants survival.
2.Mulching
Apply bark mulch no more than 3-4” deep making sure not to bury plants. Make a shallow well around tree to hold water and avoid burying trunk which can girdle or create home for fungus, boring insects or vole’s.
3.Planting & planting time
Planting too shallow is better than planting too deep, plant at level in container or find root flare on tree or shrub. Try to plant shrubs and perennials by mid-October and trees by November 1st. Plant annuals after Memorial Day past danger of frost. Grass seed should be down by September 1st.
4.Fertilizing
Fall fertilizing is very good for your plants, use a fertilizer with lower Nitrogen and higher Phosphorus like a 5-10-5 or 5-10-10. Higher levels of Nitrogen should be used in late Spring/Summer when plants need it the most.
5.Pruning
Make sure you are pruning at the right time. Some plants flower on old growth, if you are unsure then prune shortly after flowering. You also want to prune evergreens in Autumn/early Fall so their needles will not burn in the winter wind. Some plant’s will bleed out sap if you prune them in the spring especially Maples, Beech, Birch, Sycamore, Ash.
http://www.vaughanlandscaping.com/
http://www.caryaward.org/award.org/
http://www.uvm.edu/mastergardener/
