The Skiff's wanted to add a little more interest at the end of their wall and a bluestone bench was a great way to finish it.
Tuesday, October 19, 2010
Bluestone Bench Skiff Residence
*Click on photos for larger image
The Skiff's wanted to add a little more interest at the end of their wall and a bluestone bench was a great way to finish it.
The Skiff's wanted to add a little more interest at the end of their wall and a bluestone bench was a great way to finish it.
Thursday, September 30, 2010
Skiff Residence Williston, VT
*Click on photos for larger image
This free standing field stone wall was built 2 years ago bordering the driveway. I took the wall apart and rebuilt it using 2 additional pallets of wall stone.
After. I prepared the base of the wall excavating the soil to a depth of 18" and filling with 3/4" plant mix compacting in 3" lifts. This creates adequate drainage and prevents the wall from heaving in the Spring from frost in the soil.
Before. You can see the wall is settling and starting to fall over.
After. The wall is battered (tapered in) on both sides, straight and level.
Before
After
Before
After
Building the wall.
Building the corner square to the house.
The original plan was to remove the Birch tree and then build the wall. Instead we decided to leave the tree and curve the wall around it.
This free standing field stone wall was built 2 years ago bordering the driveway. I took the wall apart and rebuilt it using 2 additional pallets of wall stone.
After. I prepared the base of the wall excavating the soil to a depth of 18" and filling with 3/4" plant mix compacting in 3" lifts. This creates adequate drainage and prevents the wall from heaving in the Spring from frost in the soil.
Before. You can see the wall is settling and starting to fall over.
After. The wall is battered (tapered in) on both sides, straight and level.
Before
After
Before
After
Building the wall.
Building the corner square to the house.
The original plan was to remove the Birch tree and then build the wall. Instead we decided to leave the tree and curve the wall around it.
Thursday, September 9, 2010
Wednesday, September 8, 2010
Friday, September 3, 2010
Fall Landscaping Tips
Fall is a great time for planting. Most nurseries are having big sales this time of year to lower their inventory. I mix in compost when transplanting to help establish a good root system. Perennials should be planted by the end of October and trees by mid November. Most perennials can be divided and transplanted at this time as well. Plant bulbs after gardens beds are cleaned up by cutting back perennials and pruning shrubs as needed. I generally leave plants that provide winter interest, such as Sedum, Ornamental Grasses, Rudbeckia, and Echinacea.
To get the most enjoyment out of your flowers before winter sets in, bring potted annuals inside on cold frosty nights or cover plants with light weight sheets. Forcing bulbs indoors is an easy way to have bright colors by late winter. It usually takes 10-12 weeks for bulbs to bloom when they are stored in a cool, dry area like a basement.
To effectively winterize your garden, I recommend the following:
Spray Wilt-Pruf anti-desiccant on broadleaf evergreens to prevent leaves from drying out in cold winter winds. Rhododendrons, Mountain Laurel (Kalmia), Andromeda (Pieris), evergreen Hollies and Drooping Leucothoe are most susceptible.
Staple burlap onto stakes around larger shrubs to prevent winter wind burn. Make sure to leave a space between the foliage and burlap.
Wrap plastic tree guards around young fruit trees to prevent vole and insect damage.
If you have problems with deer eating your plants, fall is also a good time to spray plants susceptible to deer damage with Deer Off repellent or its equivalent. Plastic mesh netting around your larger shrubs is also effective deer protection. Small deciduous shrubs (those that drop their leaves in the fall, such as Azalea, Viburnum, Weigela, Lilac, Dogwood and Hydrangea) can be wrapped and tied with burlap for winter deer protection.
Late fall is the perfect time to rake leaves and thatch (the build up of grass clippings in lawn) off of your yard, and to fertilize trees, shrubs, perennials, and lawns. I use Pro-Gro 5-3-4 organic fertilizer found at local nurseries and garden centers. Test your soil’s pH, as low or high pH levels can cause nutrient deficiencies in your plants. Low pH (acidic - below 6.5) is very common in this area, and can be raised by spreading pelletized lime. Test kits for pH are sold at garden centers and are very user friendly.
Finally, don’t forget to clean, inspect and sharpen tools for next year, and to add fuel stabilizer to lawn mowers, trimmers, etc. By properly preparing your garden, lawn and tools for the winter, you will be ready when spring finally arrives!
http://www.vaughanlandscaping.com/
To get the most enjoyment out of your flowers before winter sets in, bring potted annuals inside on cold frosty nights or cover plants with light weight sheets. Forcing bulbs indoors is an easy way to have bright colors by late winter. It usually takes 10-12 weeks for bulbs to bloom when they are stored in a cool, dry area like a basement.
To effectively winterize your garden, I recommend the following:
Spray Wilt-Pruf anti-desiccant on broadleaf evergreens to prevent leaves from drying out in cold winter winds. Rhododendrons, Mountain Laurel (Kalmia), Andromeda (Pieris), evergreen Hollies and Drooping Leucothoe are most susceptible.
Staple burlap onto stakes around larger shrubs to prevent winter wind burn. Make sure to leave a space between the foliage and burlap.
Wrap plastic tree guards around young fruit trees to prevent vole and insect damage.
If you have problems with deer eating your plants, fall is also a good time to spray plants susceptible to deer damage with Deer Off repellent or its equivalent. Plastic mesh netting around your larger shrubs is also effective deer protection. Small deciduous shrubs (those that drop their leaves in the fall, such as Azalea, Viburnum, Weigela, Lilac, Dogwood and Hydrangea) can be wrapped and tied with burlap for winter deer protection.
Late fall is the perfect time to rake leaves and thatch (the build up of grass clippings in lawn) off of your yard, and to fertilize trees, shrubs, perennials, and lawns. I use Pro-Gro 5-3-4 organic fertilizer found at local nurseries and garden centers. Test your soil’s pH, as low or high pH levels can cause nutrient deficiencies in your plants. Low pH (acidic - below 6.5) is very common in this area, and can be raised by spreading pelletized lime. Test kits for pH are sold at garden centers and are very user friendly.
Finally, don’t forget to clean, inspect and sharpen tools for next year, and to add fuel stabilizer to lawn mowers, trimmers, etc. By properly preparing your garden, lawn and tools for the winter, you will be ready when spring finally arrives!
http://www.vaughanlandscaping.com/
Thursday, September 2, 2010
Ecological Alternatives to Invasive Plants in Vermont
http://www.nature.org/wherewework/northamerica/states/vermont/volunteer/art32017.html
*Click on image to view
More Invasive Plant Alternatives:
Acer ginnala Amur Maple
Alternatives:
Acer triflorum Three-Flowered Maple
Amelanchier x grandiflora Apple Serviceberry, Naturalizing Native in VT
Malus 'Prairie Fire' Prairie Fire Crabapple
Acer platanoides Norway Maple
Alternatives:
Acer x freemanii 'Jeffersred' Autumn Blaze Maple
This is a hybrid of Red and Silver Maple. Both are Native in VT
Berberis thunbergii Japanese Barberry
Alternatives:
Fothergilla gardenii 'Mt Airy'
Weigela florida 'Wine & Roses'
Rhododendron Lights Series cultivars; Deciduous Azalea. 'Rosy Lights', 'White Lights', 'Northern Highlights', 'Candy Lights', etc.
Clethra alnifolia cultivars, Summersweet Native in Northeast
Hydrangea arborescens cultivars, Smooth Hydrangea Native in Northeast
Euonymus alatus Burning Bush
Alternatives:
Aronia arbutifolia Red Chokeberry 'Brilliantissima', Naturalizing Native in VT
Ilex verticillata Winterberry, Naturalizing Native in VT
Physocarpus opulifolius Eastern Ninebark 'Coppertina' , 'Summer Wine', 'Dart's Gold' Native in Northeast
Cotinus coggygria Smokebush
Cornus sericea Redosier Dogwood, Naturalizing Native in VT
Enkianthus campanulatus Red-Veined Enkianthus Zone 5
Hydrangea quercifolia Oak Leaf Hydrangea Zone 5
Iris pseudacorus Yellow Flag Iris
Alternatives:
Digitalis grandiflora Yellow Foxglove
Hemerocallis 'Stella d'Oro'
Oenothera Evening Primrose
I have recently signed a voluntary code of conduct through the VNLA, VIEPC and Nature Conservancy to not buy, sell or design any of the invasive plants listed above. To learn more click on the link below:
http://www.nature.org/vermont/weeds
Saturday, July 24, 2010
Whitted Residence South Burlington, VT
BeforeMy client had some vintage Yew shrubs bordering the foundation of his house and was looking for easy to grow low maintenance plants. He also wanted to see the front of his house again!
* Click on photo for larger image
After. I chose low maintenance shrubs for the corners of the house and foundation.
Here are the plants I used:
Chionanthus virginucus
White Fringe Tree 8-10' White flowers in May/June
Kolkwitzia amabilis
Beautybush 6-8' Pink flowers in June
Rosa 'Como Park'
Rose 30" Bright red flowers in Summer
Rhododendron
Azalea 3-5' 'Lemon Drop' Fragrant yellow flowers in July. 'White Lights'
Fragrant white flowers in mid-May.
Plants were purchased from Cobble Creek Nursery.
Before
After
Before
Chionanthus virginucus
White Fringe Tree 8-10' White flowers in May/June
Kolkwitzia amabilis
Beautybush 6-8' Pink flowers in June
Rosa 'Como Park'
Rose 30" Bright red flowers in Summer
Rhododendron
Azalea 3-5' 'Lemon Drop' Fragrant yellow flowers in July. 'White Lights'
Fragrant white flowers in mid-May.
Plants were purchased from Cobble Creek Nursery.
Before
After
Before
After
BeforeMy client had an old brick patio in back of his house and wanted a different look.
AfterMy client decided to go with random pattern Brussels Block concrete pavers. I swept polymeric sand in the joints when I was finished to create a sealed surface. The result is a maintenance free patio with no weeds or moss.
My client had some old concrete steps and I suggested using bluestone for the landing and treads with natural Corinthian granite thin veneer stone for the risers and sides. This is a durable and attractive way to spruce up concrete steps in front of a house.
Steps, plantings and Brussels Block paver walk to driveway. Stone and pavers purchased from Trowel Trades Supply: http://www.troweltradessupply.com/
Thursday, July 8, 2010
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