Borago Officinalis, common name Borage is an edible herb hardy to zone 5 in Vermont. This plant is grown for its foliage and attractive blue flowers which are both edible and used in Spring garden salads. The flowers are also valued as an excellent source of nectar by beekeepers. Borage grows to a height of 18” x 18” wide with long leaves that resemble that of Lungwort.
I revisited one of my clients gardens this Fall that I had renovated about 6 years ago. I originally cleaned out the beds, brought in new topsoil and planted new perennials. Since then my client planted Borage in these gardens not aware of how aggressive these plants really are. Much to my demise the perennials I planted 6 years ago are gone and taken over by the Borage plants. This herb grows like a weed spreading quickly by sowing seed prolifically and rhizomes to create a dense mass of ground cover. It's creeping habit is much like Ajuga that is tolerant of a wide range of light and soil conditions. I used my backhoe to dig out and remove the majority of this plant from the garden beds and covered as much as I could with black plastic to kill the seeds. I believe this herb is going to stay around and will have to be weeded annually to keep under control. My advice is to plant this herb in a raised bed or border by itself to keep under control and avoid planting in or near an ornamental garden.
Showing posts with label Article by Brian Vaughan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Article by Brian Vaughan. Show all posts
Thursday, November 17, 2011
Monday, August 8, 2011
Safe Ecological Alternatives To Burning Bush
Burning Bush Euonymus alatus is a popular landscape shrub planted for its attractive red Fall color. The red seeds of this plant are eaten by birds in the Fall and carried long distances to forests where they are deposited in their droppings. Once Burning Bush is established in the forest understory it creates a dense stand and out competes native plants that many wildlife depend on for food. One way to help alleviate this problem is to remove and destroy existing plants in the landscape. Another is to not plant any new Burning Bush plants in the landscape. Many nurseries throughout the state have ceased the sale and use of this plant.
The question is what do you plant in place of a Burning Bush? The answer is there are many great options that are ornamental without being invasive. Fothergilla major Large Fothergilla is a shrub that grows 8' tall x 6' wide and produces sphere like fragrant white flowers in the Spring. This plant also has beautiful Fall foliage that turns colors of red, orange and yellow. Cotinus coggygria Smoke Bush is a shrub growing 12' tall x 10' wide and produces showy smoky pink flowers in Summer. Fall foliage is a nice combination of yellow, red and purple. For more shady locations there is Enkianthus campanulatus Red Veined Enkianthus (Zone 5) and Hydrangea quercifolia Oakleaf Hydrangea (Zone 5). Enkianthus grows 10' tall x 6' wide producing light yellow bell shaped flowers with red veins in Spring. Fall color is an attractive bright red. Hydrangea q. grows 6' tall x 4' wide producing large white flowers in Summer but the real quality of this plant is its foliage, which is shaped like an Oak leaf and turns a stunning dark red and orange color in Fall.
For a more natural look there are native Vermont plants to choose from. Aronia arbutifolia 'Brilliantissima' Red Chokeberry is a shrub that grows 8' tall x 4' wide producing white flowers in the Spring. The leaves turn a showy bright red color in Fall. Ilex verticillata Winterberry is also a shrub that grows 12' x 8' that produces bright red berries in the Fall which persist into Winter. Vaccinium corymbosum High Bush Blueberry grows 8' tall x 4' wide producing abundant edible blueberries in the Summer. In the Fall the leaves turn an attractive dark burgundy red.
I have recently signed a voluntary code of conduct (PlantWise) through the VNLA, VIEPC and Nature Conservancy to not buy, sell or incorporate into my designs invasive plants including Burning Bush. To learn more you can visit Greenworks VNLA at http://greenworksvermont.org/ and The Nature Conservancy: http://www.nature.org/vermont/weeds.
The question is what do you plant in place of a Burning Bush? The answer is there are many great options that are ornamental without being invasive. Fothergilla major Large Fothergilla is a shrub that grows 8' tall x 6' wide and produces sphere like fragrant white flowers in the Spring. This plant also has beautiful Fall foliage that turns colors of red, orange and yellow. Cotinus coggygria Smoke Bush is a shrub growing 12' tall x 10' wide and produces showy smoky pink flowers in Summer. Fall foliage is a nice combination of yellow, red and purple. For more shady locations there is Enkianthus campanulatus Red Veined Enkianthus (Zone 5) and Hydrangea quercifolia Oakleaf Hydrangea (Zone 5). Enkianthus grows 10' tall x 6' wide producing light yellow bell shaped flowers with red veins in Spring. Fall color is an attractive bright red. Hydrangea q. grows 6' tall x 4' wide producing large white flowers in Summer but the real quality of this plant is its foliage, which is shaped like an Oak leaf and turns a stunning dark red and orange color in Fall.
For a more natural look there are native Vermont plants to choose from. Aronia arbutifolia 'Brilliantissima' Red Chokeberry is a shrub that grows 8' tall x 4' wide producing white flowers in the Spring. The leaves turn a showy bright red color in Fall. Ilex verticillata Winterberry is also a shrub that grows 12' x 8' that produces bright red berries in the Fall which persist into Winter. Vaccinium corymbosum High Bush Blueberry grows 8' tall x 4' wide producing abundant edible blueberries in the Summer. In the Fall the leaves turn an attractive dark burgundy red.
I have recently signed a voluntary code of conduct (PlantWise) through the VNLA, VIEPC and Nature Conservancy to not buy, sell or incorporate into my designs invasive plants including Burning Bush. To learn more you can visit Greenworks VNLA at http://greenworksvermont.org/ and The Nature Conservancy: http://www.nature.org/vermont/weeds.
Friday, September 3, 2010
Fall Landscaping Tips
Fall is a great time for planting. Most nurseries are having big sales this time of year to lower their inventory. I mix in compost when transplanting to help establish a good root system. Perennials should be planted by the end of October and trees by mid November. Most perennials can be divided and transplanted at this time as well. Plant bulbs after gardens beds are cleaned up by cutting back perennials and pruning shrubs as needed. I generally leave plants that provide winter interest, such as Sedum, Ornamental Grasses, Rudbeckia, and Echinacea.
To get the most enjoyment out of your flowers before winter sets in, bring potted annuals inside on cold frosty nights or cover plants with light weight sheets. Forcing bulbs indoors is an easy way to have bright colors by late winter. It usually takes 10-12 weeks for bulbs to bloom when they are stored in a cool, dry area like a basement.
To effectively winterize your garden, I recommend the following:
Spray Wilt-Pruf anti-desiccant on broadleaf evergreens to prevent leaves from drying out in cold winter winds. Rhododendrons, Mountain Laurel (Kalmia), Andromeda (Pieris), evergreen Hollies and Drooping Leucothoe are most susceptible.
Staple burlap onto stakes around larger shrubs to prevent winter wind burn. Make sure to leave a space between the foliage and burlap.
Wrap plastic tree guards around young fruit trees to prevent vole and insect damage.
If you have problems with deer eating your plants, fall is also a good time to spray plants susceptible to deer damage with Deer Off repellent or its equivalent. Plastic mesh netting around your larger shrubs is also effective deer protection. Small deciduous shrubs (those that drop their leaves in the fall, such as Azalea, Viburnum, Weigela, Lilac, Dogwood and Hydrangea) can be wrapped and tied with burlap for winter deer protection.
Late fall is the perfect time to rake leaves and thatch (the build up of grass clippings in lawn) off of your yard, and to fertilize trees, shrubs, perennials, and lawns. I use Pro-Gro 5-3-4 organic fertilizer found at local nurseries and garden centers. Test your soil’s pH, as low or high pH levels can cause nutrient deficiencies in your plants. Low pH (acidic - below 6.5) is very common in this area, and can be raised by spreading pelletized lime. Test kits for pH are sold at garden centers and are very user friendly.
Finally, don’t forget to clean, inspect and sharpen tools for next year, and to add fuel stabilizer to lawn mowers, trimmers, etc. By properly preparing your garden, lawn and tools for the winter, you will be ready when spring finally arrives!
http://www.vaughanlandscaping.com/
To get the most enjoyment out of your flowers before winter sets in, bring potted annuals inside on cold frosty nights or cover plants with light weight sheets. Forcing bulbs indoors is an easy way to have bright colors by late winter. It usually takes 10-12 weeks for bulbs to bloom when they are stored in a cool, dry area like a basement.
To effectively winterize your garden, I recommend the following:
Spray Wilt-Pruf anti-desiccant on broadleaf evergreens to prevent leaves from drying out in cold winter winds. Rhododendrons, Mountain Laurel (Kalmia), Andromeda (Pieris), evergreen Hollies and Drooping Leucothoe are most susceptible.
Staple burlap onto stakes around larger shrubs to prevent winter wind burn. Make sure to leave a space between the foliage and burlap.
Wrap plastic tree guards around young fruit trees to prevent vole and insect damage.
If you have problems with deer eating your plants, fall is also a good time to spray plants susceptible to deer damage with Deer Off repellent or its equivalent. Plastic mesh netting around your larger shrubs is also effective deer protection. Small deciduous shrubs (those that drop their leaves in the fall, such as Azalea, Viburnum, Weigela, Lilac, Dogwood and Hydrangea) can be wrapped and tied with burlap for winter deer protection.
Late fall is the perfect time to rake leaves and thatch (the build up of grass clippings in lawn) off of your yard, and to fertilize trees, shrubs, perennials, and lawns. I use Pro-Gro 5-3-4 organic fertilizer found at local nurseries and garden centers. Test your soil’s pH, as low or high pH levels can cause nutrient deficiencies in your plants. Low pH (acidic - below 6.5) is very common in this area, and can be raised by spreading pelletized lime. Test kits for pH are sold at garden centers and are very user friendly.
Finally, don’t forget to clean, inspect and sharpen tools for next year, and to add fuel stabilizer to lawn mowers, trimmers, etc. By properly preparing your garden, lawn and tools for the winter, you will be ready when spring finally arrives!
http://www.vaughanlandscaping.com/
Monday, March 15, 2010
Organic Lawn Care
I use locally produced grass seed and organic cultural practices. I evaluate an existing lawn before I make any recommendations. There are certain indicators just by looking at a lawn that can give clues to why a lawn looks healthy or not. One of the most obvious is the presence of a lot of weeds in the lawn; this can be a result of nutrient poor soil or undesirable pH levels. Low pH is most common and can be corrected with application of ground limestone to a level between 6.5 and 7.0(a measure of Hydrogen Ions in water). Contrary to belief, some weeds in a lawn are ok and actually beneficial. White clover and yes “Dandelion” fix nitrogen from the atmosphere and release it into the soil making it available to the grass roots. A lawn with no weeds may be more attractive but is more susceptible in insect and disease damage being a monoculture (limited diversity in species) resulting in more expense to maintain. I apply organic fertilizer with corn gluten meal in the spring. The corn gluten meal acts as a pre-emergent weed seed killer and commonly used to control crabgrass. Fertilizers used on lawns in the Champlain Valley should contain no Phosphorus; the reason for this is the nutrient eventually runs off lawns and ends up into Lake Champlain contributing to blue-green algae, which is dangerous for humans and animals. Raking out excess thatch (grass) in the lawn is beneficial in the spring to prevent smothering the grass shoots. Lawns can also become compacted over time or often after construction. This requires use of an aerator machine to make small holes in the lawn to provide oxygen to the grass roots. Compost can be spread over the area to incorporate nutrients and organic matter. It looks extreme at first seeing clods of soil all over the lawn but this is short lived and the lawn will benefit immensely in the long run. Some lawns are beyond recovery and require complete renovation. Starting with good quality topsoil high in organic matter is key to a healthy and successful lawn. A minimum of 4-6” is a good depth for grass roots to grow and establish well. Selection of grass seed suitable for a particular site is crucial. A shady site will require a seed mix primarily of fine fescues and perennial ryegrass. A dry site can consist of a wide variety of clover, tall and fine fescues, perennial ryegrass, and Kentucky bluegrass. A sunny optimal site should contain 30% each of perennial ryegrass, fescues, and Kentucky bluegrass. No grass seed mixture should contain Annual Ryegrass as this is undesirable and sets seed in the Fall similar to crabgrass. Adequate watering is essential to establishing a lawn from seed or sod. I finally want to mention a few things homeowners can do to keep their lawns healthier. Blades should be kept sharp and mowing at a height of 2-3” will result in cooler grass roots in the summer lowering the risk of the lawn from drying out and turning brown. A higher mowing height also helps the grass shade out and compete with weeds such as crabgrass. Watering is a good idea, especially during droughty periods. It is always best to water early in the morning or in early to mid afternoon so the grass will dry and prevent fungal diseases. http://www.vaughanlandscaping.com/ 
Saturday, March 6, 2010
Shady Perennials
Most of the gardens I design for my clients include perennials and more often than not they are in a shaded location under a tree or on the North or West side of a building.
There are many wonderful perennials and ornamental grasses that can be used in part or full shade gardens. The definition of part shade is areas receiving 50% or more filtered light reaching the ground. Full shade has less than 50% of light covering the area. Shade gardens can be a bit more challenging when planting in dry or excessively moist sites so proper plant selection is crucial.
Epimedium(Barrenwort) and Lamium(Spotted Nettle) are excellent groundcovers for dry, shady areas. Epimedium x rubrum bears rose colored flowers in the spring growing to a height of 12”. Lamium maculatum ‘Pink Pewter’ has pink flowers in early to mid Summer with white and green variegated foliage. Polygonatum(Solomon’s Seal) and Carex(Sedge) are other great choices for dry sites. Polygonatum odoratum ‘Variegatum’ has white flowers with variegated green and cream colored foliage growing to 24”. Carex siderostica ‘Variegata’ is a nice white and green variegated cultivar growing to 12”.
Astilbe(False Spirea), Chelone lyonii(Turtlehead), Filipendula(Meadowsweet), Hosta(Plantain Lily), Kirengeshoma palmata(Yellow Wax Bells), Monarda(Bee Balm), Primula(Primrose) and Rodgersia are great perennials for moist sites. Chelone lyonii ‘Hot Lips’ is a nice plant with showy pink flowers blooming in late Summer growing to 36”. Kirengeshoma palmata has yellow bell shaped flowers in Fall but this plant’s greatest asset is its beautiful bushy Maple-like foliage which makes it a great perennial for a Japanese or Chinese garden.
More superb perennials that grow well in part shade and average soil moisture include: Alchemilla(Lady’s Mantle), Anemone(Windflower), Digitalis(Foxglove), Hakonechloa(Hakone Grass), Heuchera(Coral Bells) and Polemonium(Jacob’s Ladder).
Some of my favorite cultivars are Anemone tomentosa ‘Robustissima’ which is covered with pink flowers in Autumn; Digitalis x mertonensis, a hybrid of D. grandiflora and D. purpurea, large pink flowers in late Spring; and Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’. Hakonechloa m. is a graceful ornamental grass that has variegated green and yellow foliage growing to a height of 12”.
There are other nice perennials that thrive in full shade including: Asarum europaeum(Ginger), Brunnera macrophylla(Siberian Bugloss), Dicentra spectabilis(Bleeding Heart), Ferns, Galium(Sweet Woodruff), Chasmantium latifolium(Northern Sea Oats), Lamiastrum galeobdolon ‘Herman’s Pride’, Pulmonaria(Lungwort), Rudbeckia fulgida ‘Goldsturm’(Coneflower, yes this will tolerate a lot of shade!), Tiarella(Foamflower), Tricyrtis(Toad Lily) and Waldsteinia(Barren Strawberry). Brunnera macrophylla ‘Jack Frost’ is a popular plant with attractive silvery white and green leaves bearing blue flowers in the Spring growing to 12” high. Chasmanthium latifolium is a great ornamental grass growing to 36” and producing attractive seedheads in Autumn.
http://www.vaughanlandscaping.com/
http://friendsofthehortfarm.org/
http://perrysperennials.info/
There are many wonderful perennials and ornamental grasses that can be used in part or full shade gardens. The definition of part shade is areas receiving 50% or more filtered light reaching the ground. Full shade has less than 50% of light covering the area. Shade gardens can be a bit more challenging when planting in dry or excessively moist sites so proper plant selection is crucial.
Epimedium(Barrenwort) and Lamium(Spotted Nettle) are excellent groundcovers for dry, shady areas. Epimedium x rubrum bears rose colored flowers in the spring growing to a height of 12”. Lamium maculatum ‘Pink Pewter’ has pink flowers in early to mid Summer with white and green variegated foliage. Polygonatum(Solomon’s Seal) and Carex(Sedge) are other great choices for dry sites. Polygonatum odoratum ‘Variegatum’ has white flowers with variegated green and cream colored foliage growing to 24”. Carex siderostica ‘Variegata’ is a nice white and green variegated cultivar growing to 12”.
Astilbe(False Spirea), Chelone lyonii(Turtlehead), Filipendula(Meadowsweet), Hosta(Plantain Lily), Kirengeshoma palmata(Yellow Wax Bells), Monarda(Bee Balm), Primula(Primrose) and Rodgersia are great perennials for moist sites. Chelone lyonii ‘Hot Lips’ is a nice plant with showy pink flowers blooming in late Summer growing to 36”. Kirengeshoma palmata has yellow bell shaped flowers in Fall but this plant’s greatest asset is its beautiful bushy Maple-like foliage which makes it a great perennial for a Japanese or Chinese garden.
More superb perennials that grow well in part shade and average soil moisture include: Alchemilla(Lady’s Mantle), Anemone(Windflower), Digitalis(Foxglove), Hakonechloa(Hakone Grass), Heuchera(Coral Bells) and Polemonium(Jacob’s Ladder).
Some of my favorite cultivars are Anemone tomentosa ‘Robustissima’ which is covered with pink flowers in Autumn; Digitalis x mertonensis, a hybrid of D. grandiflora and D. purpurea, large pink flowers in late Spring; and Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’. Hakonechloa m. is a graceful ornamental grass that has variegated green and yellow foliage growing to a height of 12”.
There are other nice perennials that thrive in full shade including: Asarum europaeum(Ginger), Brunnera macrophylla(Siberian Bugloss), Dicentra spectabilis(Bleeding Heart), Ferns, Galium(Sweet Woodruff), Chasmantium latifolium(Northern Sea Oats), Lamiastrum galeobdolon ‘Herman’s Pride’, Pulmonaria(Lungwort), Rudbeckia fulgida ‘Goldsturm’(Coneflower, yes this will tolerate a lot of shade!), Tiarella(Foamflower), Tricyrtis(Toad Lily) and Waldsteinia(Barren Strawberry). Brunnera macrophylla ‘Jack Frost’ is a popular plant with attractive silvery white and green leaves bearing blue flowers in the Spring growing to 12” high. Chasmanthium latifolium is a great ornamental grass growing to 36” and producing attractive seedheads in Autumn.
http://www.vaughanlandscaping.com/
http://friendsofthehortfarm.org/
http://perrysperennials.info/
Landscape Design
A professionally designed landscape adds aesthetic and functional value to your home. Innovative designs improve both curb appeal and marketability. Garden designs should be planned for every season of the year. Aim to have bulbs blooming in early spring and perennials and shrubs flowering in succession throughout spring, summer and fall. Plants with attractive qualities year-round make the best
impression with combinations of flowers, fruit and foliage. Stone products and pavers should be chosen for aesthetics as well as durability during winter months. Stone walls need to be located away from snow plows and cars in the winter. Plants should be placed where they will not outgrow their space or block visibility near driveways and roads.
I like to think of gardens as outside rooms, with trees and shrubs forming walls and ceilings, and perennials and groundcovers creating the floors. This layered effect gives a natural look to gardens. Focal points such as a statue or accent plant draw attention from room to room. Gardens in close proximity to
the house tend to be more formal, symmetrical and functional as a way to enhance the overall appearance of the home. Informal or asymmetrical gardens are usually located further away from the house and used for recreation. Both garden styles should be balanced with plants, stone, wood, water and other landscape
materials. Repetition is an important design concept that is achieved by using the same plants or colors throughout gardens. The rhythm or pace of a garden can be achieved through plant spacing. Trees planted close together by a road or driveway tend to make you drive faster, where as wider spaced plants often make you slow down or even stop.
Most homeowners already know what they want to achieve in their landscape. A landscape designer can make these ideas a reality through sketches, on-site analysis, and site plans with plant lists and construction details. Landscape designs can be performed year-round. Plan your landscape projects with a comprehensive design this Spring.
http://www.vaughanlandscaping.com/
impression with combinations of flowers, fruit and foliage. Stone products and pavers should be chosen for aesthetics as well as durability during winter months. Stone walls need to be located away from snow plows and cars in the winter. Plants should be placed where they will not outgrow their space or block visibility near driveways and roads.
I like to think of gardens as outside rooms, with trees and shrubs forming walls and ceilings, and perennials and groundcovers creating the floors. This layered effect gives a natural look to gardens. Focal points such as a statue or accent plant draw attention from room to room. Gardens in close proximity to
the house tend to be more formal, symmetrical and functional as a way to enhance the overall appearance of the home. Informal or asymmetrical gardens are usually located further away from the house and used for recreation. Both garden styles should be balanced with plants, stone, wood, water and other landscape
materials. Repetition is an important design concept that is achieved by using the same plants or colors throughout gardens. The rhythm or pace of a garden can be achieved through plant spacing. Trees planted close together by a road or driveway tend to make you drive faster, where as wider spaced plants often make you slow down or even stop.
Most homeowners already know what they want to achieve in their landscape. A landscape designer can make these ideas a reality through sketches, on-site analysis, and site plans with plant lists and construction details. Landscape designs can be performed year-round. Plan your landscape projects with a comprehensive design this Spring.
http://www.vaughanlandscaping.com/
Beautify Your Home With Stone
I love building with natural stone for its durability and beauty. It always amazes me that walking through the woods just about anywhere in Vermont you can find a fieldstone wall. The physical labor it took to move those large stones from the plowed fields to build the “stone fences” for livestock is remarkable. I can picture a couple of men on a horse drawn cart carrying a load of stones to the edge of a field which would take a fraction of the time with the equipment used today.
I like fieldstone but there are many other choices. Panton stone, which is quarried in Addison VT is blocky and a dark grey color. Chester Granite from the Chester VT area is a very dense, uniform light grey stone highlighted with silver sparkles. American and Corinthian Granite have varying colors of iron(rust) and dark grey colors. Bluestone is also a very popular choice. Shipped in from Pennsylvania, it is available in variety of shapes and colors. The majority of patios and walks that are built with natural stone are bluestone. If you like a lighter look, South Bay Quartzite is a beige colored stone that comes in wall and flagging(large flat pieces). Rainbow Stone is dark red colored stone that comes in large irregular flagging.
The possibilities of constructing with stone are virtually endless. Do you have front steps that are in need of repair? Consider replacing your old concrete or wood timber steps with granite or bluestone steps. They come in a uniform size ranging from 18” deep x 4’ to 6’ wide with 6”-7” risers. The great thing about these steps is they can be easily placed on top of one another to construct a full set of steps and landing. Walkways are one of the easiest ways to make a big improvement to the front entrance to your house. Bluestone, brick and concrete pavers are the most common materials used and usually the choice comes down to what you like the best. Retaining walls can function as a border for patios or serve to bring the grade up in a sloping area to make it more level. Freestanding walls make great outdoor walls for gardens with benches built in for sitting and steps built in if there is a change in grade. A fire pit built into a patio is inviting on cold nights, especially if there is a hot tub built in next to it! Patios bordering swimming pools are easier to maintain than lawns and create a level area for tables, chairs and grills. Natural thin veneer stone is another product that is popular. This application is used to cover foundation walls, pillars, steps and can also be used as siding on a house. When it comes to working with stone, if you can dream it chances are it can be built.
http://www.vaughanlandscaping.com/com/
http://greenworksvermont.org/
I like fieldstone but there are many other choices. Panton stone, which is quarried in Addison VT is blocky and a dark grey color. Chester Granite from the Chester VT area is a very dense, uniform light grey stone highlighted with silver sparkles. American and Corinthian Granite have varying colors of iron(rust) and dark grey colors. Bluestone is also a very popular choice. Shipped in from Pennsylvania, it is available in variety of shapes and colors. The majority of patios and walks that are built with natural stone are bluestone. If you like a lighter look, South Bay Quartzite is a beige colored stone that comes in wall and flagging(large flat pieces). Rainbow Stone is dark red colored stone that comes in large irregular flagging.
The possibilities of constructing with stone are virtually endless. Do you have front steps that are in need of repair? Consider replacing your old concrete or wood timber steps with granite or bluestone steps. They come in a uniform size ranging from 18” deep x 4’ to 6’ wide with 6”-7” risers. The great thing about these steps is they can be easily placed on top of one another to construct a full set of steps and landing. Walkways are one of the easiest ways to make a big improvement to the front entrance to your house. Bluestone, brick and concrete pavers are the most common materials used and usually the choice comes down to what you like the best. Retaining walls can function as a border for patios or serve to bring the grade up in a sloping area to make it more level. Freestanding walls make great outdoor walls for gardens with benches built in for sitting and steps built in if there is a change in grade. A fire pit built into a patio is inviting on cold nights, especially if there is a hot tub built in next to it! Patios bordering swimming pools are easier to maintain than lawns and create a level area for tables, chairs and grills. Natural thin veneer stone is another product that is popular. This application is used to cover foundation walls, pillars, steps and can also be used as siding on a house. When it comes to working with stone, if you can dream it chances are it can be built.
http://www.vaughanlandscaping.com/com/
http://greenworksvermont.org/
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