Shrub & Tree Cultural Practices

Watering: Newly planted shrubs and trees should receive about 1” of water per week. You should water deciduous plants in deeply an average of 2 to 3 times per week during mid summer and once a week in spring and Autumn/early Fall. On the other hand if it rains every day or other day for a total of more than 1” or more per week then you should not have to water that week. Evergreens do not use as much water as deciduous plants so once a week is plenty if needed. Sometimes deciduous plants will wilt a little in extremely hot, dry temperatures during the day to conserve water, this is normal and will not harm the plant as long as it is watered properly. Watering should be monitored closely for the first year.

Maintenance: Tree stakes should be removed in one year, if they are not removed the trunk of the tree can be weakened or girdled as it grows. All evergreen and deciduous trees can be pruned anytime of the year. The best time to prune deciduous trees is when they are dormant (out of leaf and not growing, Fall/Winter/early Spring) because you can see the branch structure to make accurate cuts. Exceptions to this are trees that bleed out sap such as Maple, Birch, Beech, Sycamore and Ash, prune these trees after they leaf out. Shrubs that flower on current year’s growth should be pruned early spring before new growth or after flowering. Shrubs that flower on previous year’s growth should be pruned after flowering. If you are not sure the general rule of thumb is to prune after flowering. Dead wood can be pruned out at any time. Shearing can be done anytime during the growing season and avoided in late fall which can cause desiccation and winterkill of branches and needles. Broadleaf evergreen shrubs benefit with an application of Wilt-Pruf Anti-desiccant (prevents leaves from drying out in winter winds) in fall as long as the temperature is above 40 degrees

Fertilizer: I use organic fertilizer Pro-Grow 5-3-4(blue bag) found at local garden centers and nurseries. I apply it liberally in early spring and fall. Another great amendment for shrubs and trees is compost. I use it a lot when I transplant but you can also spread it around existing plants, a 1-2” layer each spring is a good amount.

Mulch: I use a softwood bark mulch like pine, hemlock, or spruce around trees and shrubs because it decomposes giving the plants valuable organic matter. I do not apply more than a 2-3” layer of mulch around trees and shrubs and I make sure not to bury the trunks and stems of tree and shrubs. Mulch “volcanoes” that you see heaped around trees are perfect homes for fungal diseases, insects and small rodents like voles that can girdle and kill your trees and shrubs so I strongly oppose this. It also can cause surface roots to grow in the mulch leaving them vulnerable to drought conditions and disruption.

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Perennial Cultural Practices

Watering: Newly planted perennials should receive about 1” of water per week. You should water generously an average of 2 to 3 times per week in mid summer and once a week in spring and Autumn/early Fall. On the other hand if it rains every day or other day for a total of 1” or more per week then you should not have to water that week. Watering should be monitored closely for the first year.

Maintenance: As the perennials grow you should dead head (remove flowers that have gone by) and stake plants as needed. In mid to late October (or early Spring before new growth) you should cut back all foliage of your perennials to the ground with the exception of low growing semi-evergreen ground covers (Lamium, Creeping Phlox, Thyme, Vinca, Hellebores, etc.). You may want to leave plants like sedum or ornamental grasses for winter interest and cut back early next spring. Many perennials can be divided every 3 to 5 years to maintain their vigor. Perennials are best divided in early spring with hand pruners or a large sharp knife. Care should be taken to not damage root tubers (daylilies), eyes (hosta, epimedium) and roots should be cut when needed instead of torn apart. Mature plants may need help prying apart gently with a spade, fork or shovel. Most of the perennials I use in my garden designs are low maintenance and require little or no division.

Fertilizer: I use organic fertilizer Pro-Grow 5-3-4 (blue bag) found at local garden centers and nurseries. I apply it liberally in early spring and fall.

Mulch: Bark mulch should be applied no more than 2 to 3” thick and avoid burying the base of the perennials.

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Lawn Cultural Practices

After Seeding:

Water: Daily in early morning or late afternoon for 1 hour. Continue this until the seed germinates(10 to 14 days) and grass reaches a height of 2 to 3”. At this time the grass can be cut and watered 2 or 3 times a week for 1 hour at a time. Straw can be raked out at this time or it can be left to decompose on its own.
Keep in mind that if it rains every day or other day for a total of more than 1” per week than you should not have to water that week. If we have a hot dry spell you may have to water every day in the morning and/or late afternoon. Watering should be monitored closely for the first year.

Fertilizer: I apply organic fertilizer on my lawn every spring and summer. I use Pro-Grow 5-3-4 in a blue bag produced by North Country Organics and is found in most local garden centers and nurseries.

pH: Soil acidity is a fact of life in most Vermont soils(except clay). Therefore an application of ground limestone is necessary to raise the pH level in the soil. The reason for this is the major or “macro” nutrients including Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium are made more readily available to the roots of the grass when the pH is between 6.5 and 7.0. You may want to take a soil test of your soil to determine its pH. Test kits for pH are found at most garden centers and are easy to use. What you do not want to do is put on too much lime, if you are not sure apply the minimum amount. I put lime on my lawn every other year moderately.

Other Cultural Practices: Thatch is a term used to describe the build up of grass clippings in your lawn. Thatch can usually be removed with a good lawn rake but sometimes it can require a de-thatching machine or “Power Rake” that removes 1” or more. Aeration is also important for oxygenation of the grass roots. This is also performed manually with a spiked tool used with your foot or an aerator machine can be rented for severely compacted areas.

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Organic Lawn Care

I use locally produced grass seed and organic cultural practices. I evaluate an existing lawn before I make any recommendations. There are certain indicators just by looking at a lawn that can give clues to why a lawn looks healthy or not. One of the most obvious is the presence of a lot of weeds in the lawn; this can be a result of nutrient poor soil or undesirable pH levels. Low pH is most common and can be corrected with application of ground limestone to a level between 6.5 and 7.0(a measure of Hydrogen Ions in water). Contrary to belief, some weeds in a lawn are ok and actually beneficial. White clover and yes “Dandelion” fix nitrogen from the atmosphere and release it into the soil making it available to the grass roots. A lawn with no weeds may be more attractive but is more susceptible in insect and disease damage being a monoculture (limited diversity in species) resulting in more expense to maintain. I apply organic fertilizer with corn gluten meal in the spring. The corn gluten meal acts as a pre-emergent weed seed killer and commonly used to control crabgrass. Fertilizers used on lawns in the Champlain Valley should contain no Phosphorus; the reason for this is the nutrient eventually runs off lawns and ends up into Lake Champlain contributing to blue-green algae, which is dangerous for humans and animals. Raking out excess thatch (grass) in the lawn is beneficial in the spring to prevent smothering the grass shoots. Lawns can also become compacted over time or often after construction. This requires use of an aerator machine to make small holes in the lawn to provide oxygen to the grass roots. Compost can be spread over the area to incorporate nutrients and organic matter. It looks extreme at first seeing clods of soil all over the lawn but this is short lived and the lawn will benefit immensely in the long run. Some lawns are beyond recovery and require complete renovation. Starting with good quality topsoil high in organic matter is key to a healthy and successful lawn. A minimum of 4-6” is a good depth for grass roots to grow and establish well. Selection of grass seed suitable for a particular site is crucial. A shady site will require a seed mix primarily of fine fescues and perennial ryegrass. A dry site can consist of a wide variety of clover, tall and fine fescues, perennial ryegrass, and Kentucky bluegrass. A sunny optimal site should contain 30% each of perennial ryegrass, fescues, and Kentucky bluegrass. No grass seed mixture should contain Annual Ryegrass as this is undesirable and sets seed in the Fall similar to crabgrass. Adequate watering is essential to establishing a lawn from seed or sod. I finally want to mention a few things homeowners can do to keep their lawns healthier. Blades should be kept sharp and mowing at a height of 2-3” will result in cooler grass roots in the summer lowering the risk of the lawn from drying out and turning brown. A higher mowing height also helps the grass shade out and compete with weeds such as crabgrass. Watering is a good idea, especially during droughty periods. It is always best to water early in the morning or in early to mid afternoon so the grass will dry and prevent fungal diseases. http://www.vaughanlandscaping.com/

Shady Perennials

Most of the gardens I design for my clients include perennials and more often than not they are in a shaded location under a tree or on the North or West side of a building.
There are many wonderful perennials and ornamental grasses that can be used in part or full shade gardens. The definition of part shade is areas receiving 50% or more filtered light reaching the ground. Full shade has less than 50% of light covering the area. Shade gardens can be a bit more challenging when planting in dry or excessively moist sites so proper plant selection is crucial.

Epimedium(Barrenwort) and Lamium(Spotted Nettle) are excellent groundcovers for dry, shady areas. Epimedium x rubrum bears rose colored flowers in the spring growing to a height of 12”. Lamium maculatum ‘Pink Pewter’ has pink flowers in early to mid Summer with white and green variegated foliage. Polygonatum(Solomon’s Seal) and Carex(Sedge) are other great choices for dry sites. Polygonatum odoratum ‘Variegatum’ has white flowers with variegated green and cream colored foliage growing to 24”. Carex siderostica ‘Variegata’ is a nice white and green variegated cultivar growing to 12”.

Astilbe(False Spirea), Chelone lyonii(Turtlehead), Filipendula(Meadowsweet), Hosta(Plantain Lily), Kirengeshoma palmata(Yellow Wax Bells), Monarda(Bee Balm), Primula(Primrose) and Rodgersia are great perennials for moist sites. Chelone lyonii ‘Hot Lips’ is a nice plant with showy pink flowers blooming in late Summer growing to 36”. Kirengeshoma palmata has yellow bell shaped flowers in Fall but this plant’s greatest asset is its beautiful bushy Maple-like foliage which makes it a great perennial for a Japanese or Chinese garden.

More superb perennials that grow well in part shade and average soil moisture include: Alchemilla(Lady’s Mantle), Anemone(Windflower), Digitalis(Foxglove), Hakonechloa(Hakone Grass), Heuchera(Coral Bells) and Polemonium(Jacob’s Ladder).
Some of my favorite cultivars are Anemone tomentosa ‘Robustissima’ which is covered with pink flowers in Autumn; Digitalis x mertonensis, a hybrid of D. grandiflora and D. purpurea, large pink flowers in late Spring; and Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’. Hakonechloa m. is a graceful ornamental grass that has variegated green and yellow foliage growing to a height of 12”.

There are other nice perennials that thrive in full shade including: Asarum europaeum(Ginger), Brunnera macrophylla(Siberian Bugloss), Dicentra spectabilis(Bleeding Heart), Ferns, Galium(Sweet Woodruff), Chasmantium latifolium(Northern Sea Oats), Lamiastrum galeobdolon ‘Herman’s Pride’, Pulmonaria(Lungwort), Rudbeckia fulgida ‘Goldsturm’(Coneflower, yes this will tolerate a lot of shade!), Tiarella(Foamflower), Tricyrtis(Toad Lily) and Waldsteinia(Barren Strawberry). Brunnera macrophylla ‘Jack Frost’ is a popular plant with attractive silvery white and green leaves bearing blue flowers in the Spring growing to 12” high. Chasmanthium latifolium is a great ornamental grass growing to 36” and producing attractive seedheads in Autumn.

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http://friendsofthehortfarm.org/
http://perrysperennials.info/

Landscape Design

A professionally designed landscape adds aesthetic and functional value to your home. Innovative designs improve both curb appeal and marketability. Garden designs should be planned for every season of the year. Aim to have bulbs blooming in early spring and perennials and shrubs flowering in succession throughout spring, summer and fall. Plants with attractive qualities year-round make the best
impression with combinations of flowers, fruit and foliage. Stone products and pavers should be chosen for aesthetics as well as durability during winter months. Stone walls need to be located away from snow plows and cars in the winter. Plants should be placed where they will not outgrow their space or block visibility near driveways and roads.

I like to think of gardens as outside rooms, with trees and shrubs forming walls and ceilings, and perennials and groundcovers creating the floors. This layered effect gives a natural look to gardens. Focal points such as a statue or accent plant draw attention from room to room. Gardens in close proximity to
the house tend to be more formal, symmetrical and functional as a way to enhance the overall appearance of the home. Informal or asymmetrical gardens are usually located further away from the house and used for recreation. Both garden styles should be balanced with plants, stone, wood, water and other landscape
materials. Repetition is an important design concept that is achieved by using the same plants or colors throughout gardens. The rhythm or pace of a garden can be achieved through plant spacing. Trees planted close together by a road or driveway tend to make you drive faster, where as wider spaced plants often make you slow down or even stop.

Most homeowners already know what they want to achieve in their landscape. A landscape designer can make these ideas a reality through sketches, on-site analysis, and site plans with plant lists and construction details. Landscape designs can be performed year-round. Plan your landscape projects with a comprehensive design this Spring.

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Beautify Your Home With Stone

I love building with natural stone for its durability and beauty. It always amazes me that walking through the woods just about anywhere in Vermont you can find a fieldstone wall. The physical labor it took to move those large stones from the plowed fields to build the “stone fences” for livestock is remarkable. I can picture a couple of men on a horse drawn cart carrying a load of stones to the edge of a field which would take a fraction of the time with the equipment used today.

I like fieldstone but there are many other choices. Panton stone, which is quarried in Addison VT is blocky and a dark grey color. Chester Granite from the Chester VT area is a very dense, uniform light grey stone highlighted with silver sparkles. American and Corinthian Granite have varying colors of iron(rust) and dark grey colors. Bluestone is also a very popular choice. Shipped in from Pennsylvania, it is available in variety of shapes and colors. The majority of patios and walks that are built with natural stone are bluestone. If you like a lighter look, South Bay Quartzite is a beige colored stone that comes in wall and flagging(large flat pieces). Rainbow Stone is dark red colored stone that comes in large irregular flagging.

The possibilities of constructing with stone are virtually endless. Do you have front steps that are in need of repair? Consider replacing your old concrete or wood timber steps with granite or bluestone steps. They come in a uniform size ranging from 18” deep x 4’ to 6’ wide with 6”-7” risers. The great thing about these steps is they can be easily placed on top of one another to construct a full set of steps and landing. Walkways are one of the easiest ways to make a big improvement to the front entrance to your house. Bluestone, brick and concrete pavers are the most common materials used and usually the choice comes down to what you like the best. Retaining walls can function as a border for patios or serve to bring the grade up in a sloping area to make it more level. Freestanding walls make great outdoor walls for gardens with benches built in for sitting and steps built in if there is a change in grade. A fire pit built into a patio is inviting on cold nights, especially if there is a hot tub built in next to it! Patios bordering swimming pools are easier to maintain than lawns and create a level area for tables, chairs and grills. Natural thin veneer stone is another product that is popular. This application is used to cover foundation walls, pillars, steps and can also be used as siding on a house. When it comes to working with stone, if you can dream it chances are it can be built.

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http://greenworksvermont.org/

*Ladd Residence Burlington, Vermont

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*Carlisle Residence Burlington, Vermont

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Herringbone pattern

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*Avary Residence Colchester, Vermont

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*Ferguson Residence Essex Junction, Vermont

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*Matthews Residence 2008 Shelburne, Vermont

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Granite curbing and brick steps

Field stone retaining walls

Natural bluestone steps

Full color natural cleft bluestone patio

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*Matthews Residence 2009 Shelburne, Vermont

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The biggest challenge I faced on this project was selecting specific plants that would tolerate dry and shady conditions directly under 2 mature Red Oak trees.
Here is the list of plants I used:
Rhododendron Azalea
'Candy Lights', 'Pinxterbloom', 'Mandarin Lights', 'Northern Highlights', 'Weston's Innocense', 'Pink & Sweet', 'Lemon Drop', 'Lilac Lights', 'Viscosepalum', 'White Lights', 'Rosy Lights', 'Golden Lights'

Astilbe False Spirea
'Deutschland', 'Finale', 'Fanal'
Carex Sedge
'Evergold', 'Ice Dance'
Chasmanthium latifolium Northern Sea Oats
Dicentra spectabilis Bleeding Heart
Ferns
Japanese Painted, Cinnamon, Leatherwood
Hosta Plantain Lily
'Albo Marginata', 'Hyacinthia', 'Gold Standard', 'Blue Angel', 'Francee'
Lamium maculatum 'Pink Pewter'
Phlox 'Home Fires'
Rudbeckia fulgida 'Goldsturm'
Azaleas were purchased from Cobble Creek Nursery and perennials from Fairfax Perennial Farm.
















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