Organic Lawn Care

I use locally produced grass seed and organic cultural practices. I evaluate an existing lawn before I make any recommendations. There are certain indicators just by looking at a lawn that can give clues to why a lawn looks healthy or not. One of the most obvious is the presence of a lot of weeds in the lawn; this can be a result of nutrient poor soil or undesirable pH levels. Low pH is most common and can be corrected with application of ground limestone to a level between 6.5 and 7.0(a measure of Hydrogen Ions in water). Contrary to belief, some weeds in a lawn are ok and actually beneficial. White clover and yes “Dandelion” fix nitrogen from the atmosphere and release it into the soil making it available to the grass roots. A lawn with no weeds may be more attractive but is more susceptible in insect and disease damage being a monoculture (limited diversity in species) resulting in more expense to maintain. I apply organic fertilizer with corn gluten meal in the spring. The corn gluten meal acts as a pre-emergent weed seed killer and commonly used to control crabgrass. Fertilizers used on lawns in the Champlain Valley should contain no Phosphorus; the reason for this is the nutrient eventually runs off lawns and ends up into Lake Champlain contributing to blue-green algae, which is dangerous for humans and animals. Raking out excess thatch (grass) in the lawn is beneficial in the spring to prevent smothering the grass shoots. Lawns can also become compacted over time or often after construction. This requires use of an aerator machine to make small holes in the lawn to provide oxygen to the grass roots. Compost can be spread over the area to incorporate nutrients and organic matter. It looks extreme at first seeing clods of soil all over the lawn but this is short lived and the lawn will benefit immensely in the long run. Some lawns are beyond recovery and require complete renovation. Starting with good quality topsoil high in organic matter is key to a healthy and successful lawn. A minimum of 4-6” is a good depth for grass roots to grow and establish well. Selection of grass seed suitable for a particular site is crucial. A shady site will require a seed mix primarily of fine fescues and perennial ryegrass. A dry site can consist of a wide variety of clover, tall and fine fescues, perennial ryegrass, and Kentucky bluegrass. A sunny optimal site should contain 30% each of perennial ryegrass, fescues, and Kentucky bluegrass. No grass seed mixture should contain Annual Ryegrass as this is undesirable and sets seed in the Fall similar to crabgrass. Adequate watering is essential to establishing a lawn from seed or sod. I finally want to mention a few things homeowners can do to keep their lawns healthier. Blades should be kept sharp and mowing at a height of 2-3” will result in cooler grass roots in the summer lowering the risk of the lawn from drying out and turning brown. A higher mowing height also helps the grass shade out and compete with weeds such as crabgrass. Watering is a good idea, especially during droughty periods. It is always best to water early in the morning or in early to mid afternoon so the grass will dry and prevent fungal diseases. http://www.vaughanlandscaping.com/